Across all machines and hand tools, the golden rule to avoid tearout is the same: support the timber fibres at the blade’s exit point. Whether it's a fence, backer, or insert, applying this principle will significantly reduce tearout and elevate the quality of any woodworking project. Advanced methods take a little more time, but the payoff is cleaner, safer, and more professional results every time.
Sacrificial Fences
Custom fences and backer blocks provide excellent support during cuts. On mitre saws, adding a full supplemental fence—made of MDF or ply—offers continuous support and prevents small parts from being flung or chipped. These jigs take just minutes to make but offer long-term benefits in cut quality and safety. They also improve accuracy.
Zero-Clearance Inserts
To make a zero-clearance insert, simply cut a snug-fitting plate from MDF, lower your saw blade, and make an initial pass to form the blade slot. This provides full support under the cut, reducing tearout on the bottom face of the workpiece. These inserts are replaceable, inexpensive, and allow you to customise your table saw for different blades or angles.
Scribe Cuts on Table Saws
For plywood, especially on a table saw, doing a light scoring pass first, just 1mm deep, can mimic a scribing blade and prevent veneer tearout. After scoring, raise the blade and make the full-depth cut for a clean finish. This is an easy technique that greatly improves crosscut quality on sheet goods.
Drill Press Strategy
Tearout during drilling happens when there's an air gap below the exit point. Use a fresh, clean backing board beneath your work, and avoid using backers with pre-existing holes. Go slow and ensure the backing is as firm as the main material. Even a half millimetre gap can lead to visible splinters. A brad point or Forstner bit will also provide cleaner holes than twist bits.
Climb Cutting on the Router Table
Though typically discouraged for safety reasons, climb cutting - feeding the work in the same direction as the spinning bit - can reduce tearout on a router table. It works best when done in small, controlled passes and with sacrificial backing. It’s especially useful on delicate drawer profiles or finger pulls where exit edges are fragile.
Climb cutting should always be approached with caution and practiced on scrap first. If not carefully managed, it can lead to tool kickback or unpredictable movement.
Bandsaw and Beyond
Even a bandsaw benefits from a zero-clearance edge. By placing a piece of plywood under your cut, you provide bottom support to the timber. This reduces the pull of the saw teeth that would otherwise lift and tear the underside. This trick works well with crosscutting narrow pieces or working with splintery exotics.