Adding a decorative inlay to a timber project can elevate it from functional to extraordinary. Whether you're making a serving board, a guitar, a box or a workbench, inlays are an easy way to introduce a touch of craftsmanship and personality. With pre-made inlay strips now readily available, you don’t need to spend hours cutting intricate designs — you can focus on fitting them precisely and finishing beautifully.
This step-by-step guide will walk you through everything you need to know, from accurate measuring to gluing and finishing, so you can get great results in your own workshop.
Choosing Pre-Made Inlay Strips
One of the simplest ways to get started with inlay work is by using pre-made decorative strips. These are available in a variety of designs, wood species and widths, and they’re perfect for smaller projects like chopping boards or jewellery boxes.
Measuring and Setting Up for a Perfect Fit
Use a caliper to measure the exact width of your inlay strip, and then install straight router bit with a matching width. Next, check the thickness of the inlay. You’ll want to cut a slot slightly shallower so the inlay sits proud. This allows you to sand it perfectly flush after gluing.
Routing the Inlay Slot Accurately
Use the inlay itself to eyeball the bit height, and run a practise slot in MDF. Measure the depth of the slot — if the inlay sits around 0.1mm proud, you’re in the right zone. Make small adjustments as needed until the fit is just right.
Take your time routing the final slot, keeping your passes steady and controlled with a straight edge guide. A clean cut here means a cleaner inlay fit later. You can create inlays that run vertically, diagonally or in parallel — depending on your board’s layout.
Test Fitting and Sanding the Inlay
Even if your slot is the right size, it’s good practice to test fit the inlay strip before gluing. If it’s a bit snug, gently sand the edges of the strip. A slight V-shape is ideal — it helps the inlay sit tight in the routed slot and leaves space for glue.
Don’t worry if the fit is a touch loose — glue will cause the timber fibres to swell slightly, filling small gaps. Aim for a fit that’s firm but not forced.
Gluing Inlays Securely
Choosing the right glue depends on your timber type. For oily timbers like Huon pine, you’ll get good results with Titebond III or a high-quality epoxy. Titebond III is particularly well-suited for general woodworking, offering strength and water resistance.
To keep your clamping caul clean, place a piece of baking paper over the glued slot before clamping. This prevents glue squeeze-out from sticking to the caul, making clean-up easier. Apply glue into the slot, press the inlay in place, cover with baking paper, and clamp firmly until cured.
Final Sanding and Finishing Touches
Once the glue has set, sand the surface until the inlay is flush with the surrounding timber. For chopping boards and food-safe projects, use a product like Gilly’s food-safe wax. This enhances the natural grain and provides protection for everyday use. Optional extras include hand-carved handles or chamfered edges — simple touches that add a lot of character.