Follow along with Patrick in the video at the end of the blog.
Drilling accurate angled holes in wood, especially for mortises and tenons, can be tricky without a drill press. And even if you have a drill press, not every piece fits on the table. That's where a simple angled drilling jig comes in handy.
In this guide, we'll walk through how to make a reusable, accurate jig to help you drill angled holes using just basic materials and tools. Whether you're building furniture or assembling creative joinery, this jig is a game changer.
Why Use a Drilling Jig Instead of a Drill Press?
Sure, a drill press is great for vertical accuracy. But:
- Large pieces don’t always fit.
- Angle adjustments can be limited.
- Repeatable off-angle holes are tricky.
With a drilling jig, you can take precision to the work, rather than trying to fit your work into the tool. It also allows you to consistently reproduce angled holes (like for tapered legs) even with just a handheld drill.
What This Jig Is For
The example used in this tutorial is a 25mm angled mortise in a seat blank for a stool. However, this jig can easily be adapted for:
- Angled peg holes in pegboards
- Tabletop joinery
- Wall-mounted hardware
- Creative angled joinery in cabinets or boxes
If your project requires accurate, repeatable angled holes—this jig will serve you well.
Materials You'll Need
- Offcuts or scrap wood (ideally 35mm thick or more)
- Flat panel for backing support (chipboard, MDF, or ply)
- Screws or glue for assembly
- Clamps
Tip: Use a hardwood (like oak or maple) if you want a long-lasting jig. Pine is fine for short-term or one-off use.
Step-by-Step: How to Build the Drilling Jig
1. Decide the Angle
Patrick’s example uses a 5° angle, a common splay for stool and chair legs. You can choose any angle based on your project. Use basic trigonometry or an online calculator to determine the height difference needed for your base to create the desired angle.
For a 300mm-long base, a 5° tilt requires a rise of about 26mm at one end.
2. Build the Angle Platform
Build a wedge or raise one side of a flat piece to create your desired angle. Then attach a flat “saddle” block to the angled base. This saddle will cradle the stock you're drilling into and ensure it’s square to the bit but angled to the drill axis.
Why this works: Instead of angling your work arbitrarily, the drill bit enters the work already at the correct angle thanks to the jig’s tilt.
3. Mark and Drill the Guide Hole
Clamp the angled jig onto your drill press and drill a guide hole using the correct bit (a Forstner bit in this case). This guide hole becomes your repeatable drilling path for angled holes.
Important: Make sure the surface below the hole is flat and supports the bit’s exit to prevent tear-out.
4. Use It on Large or Irregular Piece
Once made, this jig can be clamped to any size of work, even large tabletops or assembled projects. You no longer need to fit your piece into the drill press; just bring the drill to the work using the jig.
Tips for Better Results
- Add reference marks: Label "Top", draw centre lines, and extend lines around the sides for easy alignment with your workpiece.
- Use sandpaper or double-sided tape under the jig to prevent slippage.
- Clamp it down: Always secure the jig firmly before drilling.
- Check the bit alignment: With Forstner bits, there's still a small amount of play, so check the shank sits in the centre of the guide hole before starting.
- Clear chips frequently: Forstner bits clog quickly. Lift and clear every few seconds to avoid heat and dulling.